Gucci Does Dark Glamour with an Embellished Edge for Fall/Winter 2024 | Savoir Flair
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Gucci Does Dark Glamour with an Embellished Edge for Fall/Winter 2024
article GUCCI FALL/WINTER 2024 | GUCCI
by Grace Gordon 4-minute read February 24, 2024

A fresh injection of glamour sets Gucci on the right path.

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Last night I saw a clip of this gorgeous fashion show on TikTok. “Wow,” I thought, “That’s so beautiful. I wonder who designed it?” It turns out it was from Sabato de Sarno’s sophomore womenswear collection for Gucci Fall/Winter 2024. While the looks were instantly appealing, it wasn’t immediately clear what house they were from, and therein lies Gucci’s central problem. In marketing the quiet luxury vision (with an embellished edge – quite literally), it runs parallel to similar visions from other houses. The identity is in the middling stage of being set, still a little wobbly but nonetheless convincingly amalgamated to point to a promising and delicious future. 

This is not a rude criticism of de Sarno’s work, mind you. I’m not one of those people who thinks a designer has to get it “right” straight out of the gate. I appreciate the evolution, one that becomes evident season after season. Roughly a decade ago, I accused Jonathan Anderson of silhouettes in his solo collections that “struggled against the female form.”. Now look at him! I like where de Sarno is headed with Gucci, I’m just not sure I fully see the identity yet. 

With his predecessor’s cult of personality to contend with, de Sarno has a tough task of bringing his creative dreams to life in a way that is both wholly his own and still Gucci. We are starting to see it coalesce. Big, splashy logos are gone, loud prints have evaporated, and vintage magpie aesthetics are out the window. In their place, we find a grown-up, sexy wardrobe that feels both modern and familiar. It’s where de Sarno pumps up the collection’s unctuous glamour that the looks succeed the most. 

It starts with simple silhouettes. Trim bodysuits and long dresses with fitted bodices, embellished outerwear worn with matching layers. The bottom layers get more stripped back as the collection marches forward, with wooly carcoats worn with slinky lingerie-style slips featuring lacy busts. Zoom in a little closer and you’ll notice rich fabrics, sumptuous colors, and delicately adorned paillettes. Bulky coats are treated to gorgeous woven textures and glossy patterns. The collection also has some beautiful knits paired with matching micro mini dresses. Sexy. Simple. 

With the radically difficult schedule modern designers are faced with, the one thing they need the most and don’t seem to have is time. They need time to say who they are, to sell that identity, to get consumers on board with it. In the interest of protecting creatives at all costs and in protest of the system’s frequent habit of eating them alive, I’m fully on the side of giving de Sarno the time to find his footing. He’s already halfway there. 

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It’s where de Sarno pumps up the collection’s UNCTUOUS GLAMOUR that the looks succeed the most

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