Givenchy ditches streetwear and embraces eveningwear.
There was speculation that Fall/Winter 2023 might be Matthew Williams’ last show for the house of Givenchy. Just prior to the presentation, The New York Times released a profile on Williams that seemed like a transparent plea to keep his job. Something has happened between then and now, and while we don’t know what exactly went down, we can say with confidence that Spring/Summer 2024 is Williams’ best-ever collection for Givenchy.
Recently, Givenchy has quietly been asserting itself in a more eveningwear direction with a collaboration for Tiffany & Co.’s annual Blue Book, in which the house designed 15 haute couture and five ready-to-wear looks for the presentation. Couture had disappeared from the house after Clare Waight Keller's departure, but it proved a smart move to revive this direction and remind people of Givenchy's excellence at eveningwear. At Givenchy Spring/Summer 2024, Williams has ditched his signature grunge aesthetic, street wear (which became a brand signature under Riccardo Tisci), and heavy hardware in favor of a much more elegant approach. It worked beautifully. It looked like Givenchy.
Draped chiffon was transformed into delicate dresses and twee skirts, satin was rendered into dramatic opera coats, and column dresses were fitted with curving strapless bodices. Ladylike accessories like elbow-length gloves and strappy pumps (worn with tonal hosiery) shared runway space with chic little shoulder bags and oversized totes. This is the wardrobe of a woman who is the envy of the office every time she arrives and who lights up the night at black-tie galas. She is utterly chic but conscious of fashion’s changing whims, which is why, for Spring/Summer 2024, she’s lightened things up with dainty fabrics and floral prints.
We can say with CONFIDENCE that Spring/Summer 2024 is Matthew Williams’ BEST-EVER collection for Givenchy.