At Fendi, Kim Jones Is in a Roman State of Mind | Savoir Flair
Milan Fashion Week
At Fendi, Kim Jones Is in a Roman State of Mind
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by Grace Gordon 5-minute read September 19, 2023

The duality of tradition and innovation battle it out for a place in chic women's wardrobes everywhere.

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article FENDI

As much cohesion and storytelling as a Creative Director may put on the runway every season, there is just as much of both being relayed by the women who end up wearing the clothes. For evidence of this, one need look no further than a show’s guests. At Fendi Spring/Summer 2024, the All-Star line-up of A-listers and supermodels who attended — Demi Moore, Naomi Watts, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Gwendoline Christie — graced the front row in the relaxed-but-chic separates-with-a-twist that Kim Jones has made his calling card. The form of their outfits is familiar but always finished with a well-placed slit, a surprisingly wide collar, or an unexpected shoulder cut-out. It makes for a wardrobe that is smart and confident, but totally wearable. And the accessories? They add the oomph that every fashionable woman looks to inject into her wardrobe.

When conjuring the collection, Jones thought of his time spent in Rome, where “there is an elegance in ease and not caring what anybody else thinks.” He sees this being lived out by women “who dress for themselves and their own lives.” It’s funny because when I think about a Fendi woman, I think about a woman who really turns heads. But Jones’ imagined muse isn’t dressing for anyone else but herself. Her fabulousness is a foregone conclusion. 

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When I think about a FENDI woman, I think about a WOMAN who really turns heads. But Jones’s imagined muse isn’t dressing for ANYONE else but herself. Her fabulousness is a foregone conclusion

article FENDI

Duality – something I’ve come to think of as Jones’ signature for the house of Fendi – brings a lovely tension to the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, blending the stark practicality of masculine cuts and textures like the supple kid mohair with the delicate embrace of silks and knits. A fusion of organza and soft shearling roots itself in Fendi tradition (reminiscent of the ‘Featherlike’ design), while more avant-garde elements are worked in like the curtain waistband of trousers, which subtly reveals its structure. Speaking of tradition, Fendi’s ‘Selleria’ stitch finds its place not just in leather creations but morphs into metallic elements in footwear and bold ‘Filo’ jewelry by Delfina Delettrez Fendi. Meanwhile, Karl’s “Fun Fur” logo (“FF”) is disseminated across looks with intarsia leathers, which makes for an enticing form of color-blocking.

Rounding out the collection is a gorgeous line-up of bags, each acting as a testament to the myriad personas of the Fendi woman (and a dig-around in one of those bags might give clues as to her rich interior life). They form an eclectic array, celebrating icons like the ‘Peekaboo’ and ‘Baguette’ while introducing innovations like the ‘Flip’. These creations underscore the sentiment that there isn’t just one archetype of the Fendi woman; there's a universe of them, each encouraged to embrace their unique flavor of Roman liberty.


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