Fendi Explores the Magical Intersection of Glamour and Minimalism for Spring 2024 Couture | Savoir Flair
Paris Couture Week
Fendi Explores the Magical Intersection of Glamour and Minimalism for Spring 2024 Couture
article FENDI
by Grace Gordon 5-minute read January 26, 2024

For Fendi's Spring 2024 Couture presentation, Kim Jones masterfully blends Karl Lagerfeld's innovative legacy with a humanistic approach, crafting a collection that marries futurism with functionality.

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article

For Fendi Spring 2024 Couture, Artistic Director Kim Jones has taken a calculated step into a future that intertwines Karl Lagerfeld's legacy of innovation with a grounded, humanistic approach. A thoughtful exploration of where futurism meets function, where even simple minimalist ingredients are whipped into something glamorous, the collection was a quiet but powerful exercise in turning decoration into structure and structure into decoration. 

Fendi’s new understated “Scatola” silhouette, a foundational element of the collection, marks a departure from extravagance towards a pragmatic, geometric simplicity. Seen on the opening and closing looks of the show, a fitted square bodice unfurls seamlessly into a looser-fitting bottom portion. Throughout the collection, there is a poetic dance between structure and flou. There are rigid jackets worn with skirts decorated with dense branches of sequin and decolletage and shoulders hugged in "Shibari" harnesses appearing next to ethereal naked gowns in elegant draping. Something strict versus something soft.

The collection’s tailoring is particularly noteworthy. The adaptation of traditionally masculine fabrics into the contours of the female form demonstrates Jones's commitment to ergonomic design. It's an elegant fusion of form and function, underlined by the use of vicuna yarns and cashmere in rib knit dresses, which gracefully embrace the body while maintaining a distinct structural integrity. Meanwhile, Fendi’s traditional “fun fur” is traded in for shaggy feathery fringe surfaces so dense that they mimic fur without relying on the controversial material.

The embroidery work in this collection deserves particular attention. Jones has transcended the conventional role of embroidery as mere decoration, elevating it to a structural component integral to each piece. This approach not only showcases the incredible skill of Fendi's artisans but also blurs the lines between the natural and the man-made in a manner that is both innovative and respectful.

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The COLLECTION was a quiet but powerful EXERCISE in turning decoration into structure and structure into decoration

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