Subversity and Simplicity Collide at Fendi Fall Winter/2023 | Savoir Flair
Milan Fashion Week
Subversity and Simplicity Collide at Fendi Fall Winter/2023
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by Grace Gordon 3-minute read February 23, 2023

At Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2023 show, nothing was as it seemed.

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Look, and then look again. At Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2023 show, nothing was as it seemed. While Creative Director Kim Jones held simplicity and sophistication at the center of the collection, he also had in mind complexity and subversion. The fabric seemed to have a mind of its own; it crept around shoulders, double-up on skirts, and twisted up necklines, transforming otherwise straightforward looks into something new and unexpected. There is a core Fendi identity that Jones has been reluctant to stray away from since he took the helm two years ago. Fortunately, that core is the utterly aspirational Fendi women, particularly Delfina Delettrez and Silvia Venturini Fendi herself, whose personal style and wardrobes formed a reference point for Fall/Winter 2023. 

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From the outset, subversion made itself known. The first look featured a nipped blue cardigan with twisting halter accents, paired with a leather skirt and boots. From there, vests were warped into cold-shoulder tops, trousers were accented with long wraparound paneling, and pleated skirts were worn over matching pants. Some of the lingerie elements from Fendi’s recent couture elements crept their way into the collection in the form of lace slip dresses and blouses affixed with boudoir-esque bodices. A kinky side was seen in dominatrix leather thigh-high leather boots, which felt subversive given how boardroom-sophisticated so much of the suiting looked.

From a sober palette of robin’s egg blue, chocolate, stormy grey, inky navy, and cream came an injection of vivid color at the end. Crimson knit dresses, and blousy silk dresses in fuchsia, rounded out the finale alongside silk floor-length dresses with colorful attachments and one more look at the pleated-skirt-over-pants motif, this time in romantic reds and pinks. Over several seasons, Jones has been asserting a new type of Fendi woman. She is modern, sophisticated, and secretly naughty. With the Fendi Fall/Winter 2023, his vision coalesced. And it was strong.

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