Diesel Turned the Whole World Into Voyeurs for Fall/Winter 2024 | Savoir Flair
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Diesel Turned the Whole World Into Voyeurs for Fall/Winter 2024
article DIESEL FALL/WINTER 2024 | DIESEL
by Grace Gordon 4-minute read February 22, 2024

The whole world is watching (and being watched).

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It’s not a new idea to reveal the process and the people behind the scenes at a fashion show. Dior has invited its petit mains onto the runway after a couture presentation, and Gucci once exposed the pre-show model dressing ritual on a lit carousel. But Glenn Martens, the Creative Director of Diesel (who is truly doing fashion spectacle like no other), took it to the next level for Fall/Winter 2024. Days ahead of the show, Diesel launched a continuous live link on Instagram of pre-show prep. Five cameras were trained on the room where fittings and styling took place. I checked in from time to time, hidden behind my phone screen as I watched models being tugged into pants and styling assistants lingering over the shoe table. It felt especially voyeuristic. It was supposed to.

Voyeurism turned the watchers into the watched at the show presentation, where giant screens showed a live feed of 1,000 invited Zoom guests. They watched the show and were being watched by the physical audience in turn. Screenshots of the Zoom panel were also rendered as digital prints and worn on the runway (and I am SO curious about how they achieved this during the show). Meanwhile, the rest of the world became a third, invisible audience, watching the watchers and the watched. 

While Martens’ grand schemes for his shows are always awe-inspiring – the giant inflatables at Spring/Summer 2023, the 7,000-person audience/rave of Spring/Summer 2024 – they never seem to distract from the clothes. He manages to balance spectacle and sartorial excellence with ease. His collections are brilliant, featuring elaborately developed textiles (mostly explorations into denim) and sexy silhouettes that feed the hungry Y2K-loving kids of Gen Z. But Fall/Winter 2024 represented a turning point for Diesel. A maturation. With a hyper-focus on sumptuous outerwear like faux fur coats with denim insets (the best version – a powdery blue fur coat – was worn by model Adit Ajhok Deng), longline vinyl, and poufy quilted parkas, the collection felt more grown up and sophisticated. 

There were still slinky, sexy looks thanks to some lovely devoré jersey separates, printed minis, and burnout details on plaid midis, but there were also gorgeous floral dresses in the mix that spoke to an older audience. When so many shows seem to conjure more of the same, Martens is always pushing forward, experimenting, and testing the waters. And it has paid off. Last year, sales were up 13.1 percent. 

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Fall/Winter 2024 represented a turning point for Diesel. A MATURATION.

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