Gabriela Hearst bids adiós to Chloé with a final collection that bursts with joy and gratitude.
The musical chairs of fashion can leave fans feeling sad and hollow, much like when your favorite player is traded to another team. This season, Gabriela Hearst ended her three-year tenure at Chloé with a celebration – a triumphant display of her best ideas that immediately made us wish she were staying on. So does the fact that as Creative Director, she pushed the house into a much more responsible, eco-friendly direction with the building of a 12-person sustainability department, the achievement of B-Corp certification (the first for a luxury house), a commitment to recycled materials, and collections dedicated to climate solutions.
In her fourth and final act for Chloé, she looked ahead to a future where “individual action” leads to “environmental advocacy.” This idea takes the form of botanical, curving silhouettes, as if the wearer were manifesting her conscientious lifestyle through her wardrobe. Combined with touches of Hearst’s Uruguyan heritage, like gold-tipped collars on leather vaquera ensembles, and ruffles that speak to Latin dance costuming, Hearst brought a splash of herself to the collection.
This was an exceptional collection, but mostly devoid of the house’s signature flou (except in the case of cottagecore doily lace frocks). Instead, the looks felt grown-up, mature, and embedded with artful flourishes. There were netted dresses decorated with laser-cut leather flowers, cut-out minis trimmed with thick vinyl bands, floral embossed leather bombers, and a gleaming three-piece silk suit that just looked like money. The well-heeled sophistication of the collection especially came through in the perfect pairing of a creamy cape, straight-cut leather trousers, white leather boots, and a tote trimmed in tidy studs.
As the hourglass ran out on Hearst’s last show, she turned what could have been a somber moment into a party, thanks to a live performance by the Rio de Janeiro samba school Mangueira. Musicians, dancers, and singers swept the catwalk, and Hearst was among them, inviting everyone to celebrate the moment with her – and celebrate she should.
This season, Gabriela Hearst ENDED her three-year tenure at Chloé with a CELEBRATION – a triumphant display of her BEST IDEAS that immediately made us wish she were staying on.