Textile Art and Philosophy Collide at Dior Spring 2024 Couture | Savoir Flair
Paris Couture Week
Textile Art and Philosophy Collide at Dior Spring 2024 Couture
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by Savoir Flair 5-minute read January 23, 2024

Dior's iconic La Cigale dress becomes a throughline for understanding the special aura of haute couture.

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Artist Isabella Ducrot got a late start in the arts, but at 93 years old she shows no signs of slowing down. Her ethereal installationt, aptly named “Big Aura,” enwrapped the walls of the Rodin Museum gardens, a haven where Dior's haute couture offerings sprung to life. Imagine, if you will, 23 statuesque dresses, reaching skyward at a majestic five meters, poised amid a canvas of erratic black stripes, a nod to the weft and warp of fabric. This weft and warp are Ducrot’s obsession; she is fascinated with the internal structure of fabric, how its crisscrossing threads form both strength and void. What she created for the Dior Spring 2024 Couture show magnified the obsession. More than mere dresses, they were abstract totems, symbolizing power that leaps beyond the mere physical.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior's Creative Director, perceives “Big Aura” as the essence that envelopes haute couture, a realm forever ripe for rumination.. Each couture piece, distinctively sculpted to the wearer, emanates its own unique aura, echoing philosopher and writer Walter Benjamin's musings on the singular nature and authenticity of artistry.

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Chiuri traces this “aura” back through Dior's illustrious couture lineage, a testament to fashion's quintessence and peerless craftsmanship. Take, for instance, the iconic La Cigale dress from the Autumn/Winter collection of 1952, designed by Christian Dior himself. Its sculptural silhouette and moiré fabric serve as a totem, heralding the sanctity of couture craftsmanship.

Dior’s Spring 2024 Couture collection was a kaleidoscope of hues and textures, a symphony of gold, white, gray, burgundy, and green, rendered in moiré. The garments, with their geometric lines and architectural elegance, are a modern homage to La Cigale, fusing art with life in coats with grand collars, voluminous skirts, and layered ensembles.

In this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri captures, in tangible form, the chromatic and structural elements that shape the silhouettes, elevating haute couture to a realm not just of contemplation but of performance – a transformative journey of the imagination, a testament to the spirit of perennial change that spurs us to forever search for the new and the next.


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Each couture piece, distinctively sculpted to the WEARER, emanates its own unique aura, ECHOING philosopher and writer Walter Benjamin's musings on the SINGULAR nature and AUTHENTICITY of artistry.

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