The tapestry of London Fashion Week unfurled in a vibrant array of colors, textures, and — dare we say — emotions. Let's peel back the layers and take a moment to relive the shows that left us spellbound.
JW Anderson's Plasticine Playground
JW Anderson’s SS24 show was reminiscent of childhood and youthful energy, the opening look being made of plasticine (the British equivalent of play dough). The collection showcased the same silhouettes in different color combinations, sticking to the exaggerated proportions and eye trickery Anderson is so known for. The seemingly everyday silhouettes were given a whole new identity, “finding the strangeness in the mundane.”
Burberry Under Daniel Lee
Daniel Lee presented his sophomore collection for Burberry in a pitched tent in the Highbury Fields. The second season of Burberry under Lee’s helm was an exploration of lightness, and his show notes mentioned his embrace of "the clichés of British fruits and English meadows". Print was prominent, and the brand codes have evolved from logos to subtle signifiers as well as a reimagining of the trench for summer. This is the new era of Burberry; and its name is being softly whispered rather than shouted.
Richard Quinn: A Tribute to His Late Father
Richard Quinn dedicated his SS24 show to his late father, who passed away in June of this year. As his father usually helped to create the set design of his shows and was very involved in the brand, the soft-spoken and elegant collection was an ode to him. His signature floral designs were constructed even more meticulously, emphasizing detailed embroidered silhouettes. When the show closed, Quinn’s mother stood up to greet and congratulate him, while the crowd followed to give him a standing ovation.
KWK by Kay Kwok: Intergalactic Odyssey
KWK by Kay Kwok, the designer most recently known for his 3D-printed look created for Beyonce’s Renaissance Tour, showcased an equally futuristic collection at London Fashion Week. The show “utilised advanced technology and science-craft in emotive and expressive collections existing between the earth and somewhere distant in another world.” With silhouettes reminiscent of planets and their rings, the models resembled intergalactic sculptures.
Simone Rocha and Those Crocs
This week, Simone Rocha was not only named Jean Paul Gaultier’s fifth guest designer for Paris, but she presented her ever-so-romantic collection in London, where the models debuted their Simone Rocha Crocs on the runway. Pearly, embellished, and overtly Rocha, the footwear of the collection was just as enchanting as the clothing and will undoubtedly be a hit the minute it hits the stores.
Susan Fang's Statement Frames
Susan Fang, amongst other designers this past week, took to AI to find inspiration for her collection. Her futuristic eyewear that was decorated with bio-inspired flowers was — like the collection in its entirety — sustainable, with 90% made from surplus fabric from other luxury brands.