Acne Studios Heads in a Confident New Direction for Spring/Summer 2024 | Savoir Flair
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Acne Studios Heads in a Confident New Direction for Spring/Summer 2024
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by Grace Gordon 3-minute read September 28, 2023

Acne Studios, take all our money.

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A new era of Acne Studios has dawned, and with it comes a chance to scale the house even bigger. Last season, Kylie Jenner showed up and some people scratched their heads. Kylie? At Acne? Not too long ago, she was associated closely with brands like Versace and Balmain. Then she took a turn for high-octane glam and archival couture pulls. Now, she’s entering a new era, donning soft-girl, cottagecore looks, and pulling from cool, more specialized houses that have a lot of heat like Courreges, Loewe, Jacquemus, and of course, Acne Studios. And when the two decided to team up on a recent campaign, absolute fireworks exploded. Kylie Jenner, smeared with mud and glistening with innate magnetism, erupts from the new Acne Studios campaign as the famous family’s new model superstar. She gives everything she’s supposed to give, and more. A symbiotic relationship.

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Acne Studios has crazy momentum right now because it keeps finding ways to keep things fresh and surprising, but Spring/Summer 2024 is where Creative Director Jonny Johannson really stepped into his own and demonstrated that he knows how to make cool, ultra-of-the-moment clothes with intelligent concepts behind them and wearability still at the fore. It is a tricky tightrope to walk, indeed.

For Johansson, this meant going back to basics, the foundational products that Acne Studios cut its teeth on in the early days: fabulous outerwear and denim. Except this time, his denim was cast in plaster, and outerwear occasionally took unusual form, like in the case of a burnt red coat made to semble a button-up and trousers (imprinted with a waistband and belt loops). But the collection contained many interesting ideas beyond these, too. 

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With a disco ball crashed in the corner of the room and soft beige furnishings and carpeting creating a duality of party vibes and lushness (both designed by Lukas Gschwadtner), a parade of similar dualities unfurled. There were tanks and dresses that sprouted mussed feathers in every direction, cropped tees folded over exposed bras (representing a conceptual state between dress and undress), sweat suits with fitted sock-footed bottoms, a skirt draped with tee material – party clothes with a soft-focus twist. 

The collection’s twisted dresses – some sheer and checkered, others in a wet-look material – deserve a mention, as does a mini skirt with an embedded tote bag “pocket” on the flank worn with a matching leather bomber. We also cannot ignore that the lipstick red dress Jenner wore to the show this season came out in a jet black hue, and Rosalía’s front row ‘fit appeared in shades of forest green, cobalt blue, and fiery red. If this is the new direction of Acne Studios, consider us on board.


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Acne Studios has CRAZY momentum right now because it KEEPS finding ways to keep things fresh and SURPRISING, but Spring/Summer 2024 is where Creative Director Jonny Johannson really stepped into his own.

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