There was an obvious, but well-presented, influence taken from nature on the Stephane Rolland runway this Couture Week. From the muted earthy tones and feathered shoulders, to the undulating ruffles that reminded one of a sea anemone, Rolland was keen to incorporate the underwater ecosystem into his collection. The barnacles and the rippled layers belong to a goddess of the ocean, but there was something else going on here beyond that. Rolland put out some pretty bold attempts at enhancing and embellishing the female form, a fact that will not go unnoticed by his loyal fans. Though the clothes had beautiful movement on their own, there was an added dimension of kinetic energy in the wiry and tacit structure of the garments. They were beautifully composed and tailored, adhering to the body’s contours near the chest and torso and then blasting away from the legs in a swirling flurry of silk and chiffon. This isn’t red carpet fodder and it’s not for the boardroom either. Instead, this co-mingles party girl chic with whispers of a clandestine society. It’s gorgeous, appealing, and a tiny bit threatening; but you have to look past the Poseidon bride décor to really see it.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway