The reference for Bill Gaytten’s designs at John Galliano this season were the irreverent wood-carvings of Aubrey Vincent Beardsley. Beardlsey’s erotic curvy shapes found a home on Gaytten’s Victorian ruffles, and his sauciness was found in the barely-there shorts and thigh-high stockings that cut the repressive starchiness of the heavy jackets and blouses with a thick sexual tension. Gaytten’s maidens were far from pure, but this contrast between 18th century modesty and wanton sensuality made for a tempting collection. The show started with a black bow-front dress, decorated in little mullioned golden windows lining the exterior. Bows and ruffles were a big theme here, mimicking the high-necked dresses of Victorian ball gowns. A cape overlay top with plissé pleated peplum was worn over speedo shorts and sexy mustard over-the-knee tights, giving us that first glimpse of coltish thighs that was to be repeated throughout the show. Blousy leather jodhpurs were the only form of pants to be seen. Gaytten used fur sparingly, but one special look was a wavy collared contrast fabric trench with a hemline that mimicked the collar, trimmed at the bottom in fox fur. A feathery scaly sack dress and cropped jacket were a bestial offering that seemed to depart from the sensual theme of the show, but were interesting nonetheless. Gaytten’s Dior line this season was all about flaunting ladylike forms, and his John Galliano runway was about stripping down and letting loose. Either way, sex sells, and this was, perhaps, the stronger of the two shows.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway