It’s curious how often “gypsy chic” influences the runway. It seems strange that fashion deities would cast their eyes that direction as often as they do, but in understanding the gypsy culture one might begin to understand why. Gypsies, sans pejorative connotations, refer basically to a tribe of people from the Roma of Eastern and Central Europe. They are a nomadic people whose population is diffused throughout the world. The nature of their migratory ways means that it became necessary to nonverbally transmit their tribal identity via styles of dress. The regions they were in lent to their particular styles, from Spanish lace to Norwegian patterns of embroidery. Gypsy dress incorporates the influence of many cultures but is itself distinctive. This is a fascinating idea to a fashion designer, especially one who becomes obsessed with semiotics the way Ricardo Tisci does.

Tisci weaves in gypsy style with a dark and moody (almost grunge) aesthetic. It can be seen in the floor-length, short-sleeved, fur-trimmed robes, embroidered heavily with mosaic patterns. Grunge peeks through in slashed leather and ombre dip-dyed sweaters. It is a merging of two disparate worlds with one thing in common: a sense of anarchical lawlessness and a “buck the system” attitude. Tisci isn’t issuing a challenge to the industry, though, as he manages to finish it all with an almost ironic sense of regality.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway