If Riccardo Tisci’s latest collection for Givenchy sells well – and it should – it may singlehandedly cause a leather shortage for its ateliers. Leather was one of the most referenced fabrics of Fashion Week this season, but no one used it quite like Tisci. Leather was twisted, draped, layered, and slashed revealing construction that was more mutable at second glance than a still photo would have you believe. His equestrian influence was nearly lost in the pleats and folds of this moody, dark, and thoroughly Givenchy collection. At first he smothers, and then he lightens up. Tisci can be heavy-handed at times, but he learned to temper his own tendencies in the latter half of the show. The beginning was a smooth start in velvet toppers and leather shorts paired with knee-high flat riding boots. Then the volume expanded to include many wide short-sleeved jackets, blouses, and capes. Silk bow-blouses and trim quilted leather jackets slimmed the silhouette back down to manageable proportions. Colorful belted slip dresses, shown toward the end of the show, were a radiant relief in a sea of black and blood red. Tisci’s mastery of deep, brooding sensuality shined in this collection. The world may be facing some dark times right now, but at least we can face it in style, wearing Givenchy’s noir ensembles.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway