Karl Lagerfeld has been tweaking this blueprint for decades. He will shrink and blow up a pattern, slim down a silhouette, and elongate a hemline. You can feel him getting closer to the perfect embodiment of “Chanel”, circling like a predatory hawk near its prey. He has been training all of his life for that moment, and he’ll know it when he sees it. This is the trajectory of a consummate perfectionist. For Paris Couture Week, he levels up his take on the Chanel tweed suit and the frothy, moody gowns he’s been experimenting with of late. This time around, Chanel is a little boxier, but still tailored enough to be flattering. His futuristic fingerless gloves and sparkly tights are back, adding a splash of metallic glimmer to an already sparkly collection. The footnote to this iconic Chanel collection lay in the details: starburst necklines, high mandarin collars, supple knitwear, geometric patterns, quilting, and more, which speaks to the Couture nature of the design work. One especially extravagant tulle and pearl piece took 3,000 hours of hand embroidery to complete. His theme of “New Vintage” was basically meaningless as original Chanel coda was spun effortlessly into the shapes of the collection. Chanel transcends vintage, even “New Vintage”, always. For some, this may be a step backward into well-trod territory, but don’t worry, he’s still tweaking it.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway