What does it take to turn a woman into a jewel? Perhaps a little more than Alexis Mabille is willing to offer. Yet, when we strip away the pomp and circumstance of this indulgent runway styling, there are many pieces here that are tasty enough for a second bite. The cool fall/winter season has Mabille dipping into crushed velvet gowns, massive organza capes, and tight sequined geisha dresses. Despite the scattered influence of so many of these pieces (dandys, Victorian virgins, and futuristic disco divas were a few of the varied looks), one must remember that jewels are multi-faceted. Perhaps Mabille designed this collection from a prismatic angle.

What really works here are the operatic gowns in ruby red, magenta, and lavender. They were cut in such a way as to be both cape and gown at the same time, and looked amazing on the runway. However, the extravagant pieces that preceded these gowns were quickly forgotten because they reminded us far too much of how a collection can go wrong when a designer second-guesses himself. Take away the bows, the massive chandelier earrings, and the gravity-defying hair and you are left with some very gorgeous, theatrical gowns that might even be worthy of the red carpet treatment.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway