Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Milan Fashion Week Coverage

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2012

If, after 40 years in the business, Roberto Cavalli wants to leave behind his reputation as connoisseur of gauche party frocks, this was the collection to do it. Sit up, and take notice: this is how an established brand changes their aesthetic. Cavalli doesn’t shy away from animal prints, bright colors, or glittery gold, but to quote Bob Dylan, “This time around it’s more correct, right on target, so direct.”

The astonishing first look – a crinkly-looking gold foil jacket and confectionary skirt that resembled rainbow marzipan - set the tone for the daywear portion of the show. Ensuing looks harped on the overpowering gold-dipped theme, but rainbow prints shot through the collection for harmonious, happy balance. One particular skirt that kept popping up was paneled with stripes of black glitter that were pieced together on top of a sheer layer. The weight of the glittering strips on a lighter fabric caused the skirt to whip and whirl in a really fantastic way around the model’s legs. In fact, this show was full of garments that possessed amazing movement – especially the mousseline gowns in the eveningwear portion.

It’s a tad ironic that, as the show progressed, and Cavalli started showing animal prints, the tone seemed calmer (usually shows progress from tame looks to wilder ones, this one didn’t). Black snakeskin pants went instantly on every editor’s must-have list, along with the no-nonsense pairing of ethereal, featherweight gowns and masculine black jackets. The liquorice black and gold dresses at the end were amazingly tailored, to the point where the printed details looked more like tattoos on the model’s flesh than a separate garment. Cavalli, put a big, ostentatious gold feather in your cap. You’ve earned it!

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

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