It is impossible to dismiss the connection between Missoni’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection and the recent tragedy that beset the Creative Designer, Angela Missoni. At the beginning of this year, Angela Missoni’s brother, Vittorio Missoni, died in a plane crash off the coast of Venezuela. The family spent months searching the ocean for signs of life. This oceanic collection is something like an homage to Vittorio’s memory, an act of catharsis in the form of art. If viewed as a loving tribute, the beauty of this collection is likely to break your heart. Yet, viewed in a vacuum, this is clearly the best collection shown at Milan Fashion Week, and also one of Missoni’s best presentations in years. The clothes are crafted beautifully, with artistic touches that are alive with movement. Women will want to wear the flouncy fringe dresses and elegant sarong-wrapped frocks; they will love the easy movement of loose-knit skirts and boxy, cropped jackets.
Missoni’s exotic motif is sophisticated in dark jewel tones and black-and-white contrasting looks, relying on a variety of graphic patterns and lively prints in a variety of supple textures and shapes. Waves, seagulls, and a searing print featuring a jagged beach cove in sunset shades are repeated often throughout the presentation. Graphic black-and-white embroidered knitwear shown in woven see-through textures is seen repeatedly on sleeveless blouses, beach cover-ups, and pencil skirts. In the mix, there are also soft technical tweeds in blocks of emerald and navy, pleasantly striped trousers resembling Mediterranean beach umbrellas, a glitzy lacquered cropped jacket in fuchsia, and several one-shoulder tunic dresses. Missoni’s outerwear is light and fitted, shown in a textured woven pattern and arranged in color-blocked stacks. For evening, there are frocks overlaid with a loose fringe panel, tiger-striped sequined dresses, and shiny leather pencil skirts bisected with a repeating wave pattern. Missoni’s use of contrasting colors and exciting touches of fringe, netting, and metallic beading make the collection burst with texture and sparkle with light. The ocean can be a frightening place for some – there is so much we don’t know about what goes on beneath the surface. Missoni turns it into a lovely dream, soothing away our fears by asking us to face them.
photos: courtesy of GoRUNWAY