While Erdem might be best known for its stunning, floral-printed collections, this time around, the label decks out its feminine frocks with feathers. Designer Erdem Moralioglu’s idea was to bring a sense of boyhood cadet rigidity to the world of womenswear. Fashion constantly interprets and refines androgynous dressing – usually just culling and coopting from menswear – but Erdem takes a different approach with this collection. He refines androgyny by pulling tiny details from the genre, but keeps each look astutely feminine. There were stiff little collared button-downs worn with textured vests, slubby jackets and sheer overlays, and tough motorcycle jackets touched with delicate raised embroidery. Feathers sprouted from maxis, toppers and shift dresses, giving this minimalist, monochrome vision a delicate aura. Erdem is an embroidery wizard and he applied his skill to head-to-toe sheer looks, giving them visual depth with intricate patterns. Formalwear is as fantastic as it is scaled back – there’s a tiered dress with corset boning details that alternates between miniscule polka-dotted sheer fabric and metallic floral prints; there’s a sleeveless top and short combination overlaid with a flower-embroidered maxi dress, and a stunning black damask embroidered dress that ended in a frothy ruffle of gathered organza. This is Erdem’s softer side comprised of a gentle fragility that will resonate deeply with his fanbase.
Watch our exclusive video coverage below:
written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRUNWAY