The strange thing about this presentation is that, for all the leaf, tropical, and Bermuda prints, it didn’t feel like a Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Perhaps as a tongue-in-cheek commentary on the increasingly hot summers New York has been experiencing due to climate change, clothing was stuffy, militaristic, and even at times Edwardian. It was heavy, but not ungainly. There were suede jackets featuring military braiding, tropical-printed toppers accented with tassels, wool jackets with matching shorts, and leaf-printed wool separates worn over clingy turtlenecks. Languid pantsuits featuring prints and clots of black crystal paillettes were the prize of the presentation – easy to wear and beautiful to look at. The hologram sequins from his Marc by Marc Jacobs show appeared again, this time on a bubble-hemmed, mid-length dress fitted over sheer serrated sleeves and a puff-sleeved sheath dress. Crinkly crinoline gowns trimmed with lace, tassels, and slit-up sleeves comprised the eveningwear portion of the show. They came screaming out of a twisted Dickensian plot, and left a deep, maudlin impression. With so many collections at New York commanding majority rule with the same trends, it was something of a welcomed change of pace to encounter something so different. Marc Jacobs closed New York Fashion Week, and managed to make an unforgettable impact.
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written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRUNWAY
-September 13, 2013
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