The spectacular display was unexpected coming from Prabal Gurung. Guests were invited inside Moynihan Station and seated in four quadrants around an antiseptic stage from which hung enormous sheets of plastic. Models, frozen in place at the show’s beginning, were awakened by a fury of epileptic fluorescent flickers set to a cinematic soundtrack – their sumptuous pastel- and candy-colored clothing juxtaposed against a clinical backdrop.
For Spring/Summer 2014, punchy color is only a fraction of Gurung’s story. With a mood board that showed a versatility of inspiration – from 1962 photographs of Marilyn Monroe taken by Bert Stern to a neon sculpture by Tracey Emin – Gurung poised himself to take on both the vulnerability and strength of femininity. The harmony between these two qualities was actualized in a collection that cobbled together 1950s classics like wiggle dresses and vented pencil skirts with more experimental fare like rose-printed PVC coats and textural tweeds woven from plastic thread. The curvy silhouette and sloping shoulders of the clothes played up the strong, feminine aspect of the collection, while eye-catching floral prints bloomed on slim sheath dresses and fitted skirts. These seductive garments were further enhanced by splashes of neon, plastic paillettes, crystal embroidery, and a small smattering of feathers. New York City jeweler Chris Habana was called in to provide ear cuffs for the show – a small detail that didn’t go unnoticed by front row fashion experts. A series of sensational duchesse-satin gowns with sensual bustier busts and majorly textured off-shoulder frocks closed the show, transmitting a strong, confident message to Gurung patrons: even the prettiest looks can be improved upon with a little edge.
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written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRUNWAY