While he typically focuses on collections for the “everywoman”, he has recently been trekking through unfamiliar territory – at least when it comes to the Wu that we’re used to. This time, he takes us on a honeymoon in the safari, and the result is a lovely combination of hunting toppers with dresses that could easily be labeled “boudoir-esque”. Both romance and adventure are found in such a rarefied crossbreeding of looks. A palette of soft neutrals and pastels helped to elevate the soothing and intangible quality of this collection.
Though seemingly untroubled by the Wu status quo, his breezy-looking dresses are crafted with subtle structure – like nearly invisible inner corsets or chains that cinched the silhouette in place. The easefulness of this collection comes not from the dreamy dresses but from the safari jackets and languid trenches that fit as loosely as night robes. Nubby knit sweaters and blouses provided a nice textural counterpoint to the yards of sheer and tulle used to craft many of the looks. In addition to these standout pieces, Wu also let loose a series of sophisticated swimsuits and sheer beach cover-ups, which were followed by slinky sheer gowns covered with strategically placed pewter and crystal sequins. Though the cohesiveness of the collection was strong, there was a tough black moto jacket presented near the end of the show that looked slightly out of place against all of the dreamy textures and soft colors. Two gorgeous evening gowns closed the show, one light and one dark, featuring body-conscious slip dresses that pooled marvelously at the feet in a swath of ruffled organza. For Spring/Summer 2014, we learned that Wu’s sensual side thankfully comes with a sense of adventure.
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written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRUNWAY
-September 7, 2013
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