Stella McCartney’s attempt at ‘everyday’ dressing might have been scaled back, but it was anything but ordinary. Her presentation’s attempt at being casual was belied by the sculptural details of the collection.
Her artistically audacious designs channel the work of suprematist Kazimir Malevich, particularly his work Complex Presentiment: Half-Figure in a Yellow Shirt
, with the planar elements of the clothing interrupted by curving geometric shapes. Giant rounded figures in sturdy fabrics lightly adhered to the fronts of sheer shift midi-length dresses, and tongues of opaque fabric licked down see-through skirts. Her cropped silhouettes and bulky outlines warped the perception of the female form, foreshortening legs and plumping up shoulders. Her toppers ran the gamut from sporty knit jumpers and boxy short-sleeved jackets to surplice-neckline robes. A few abstract prints added a complex element to the flat, plain colors in the collection, especially on the last few looks. She closed with a handful of summery dresses in lightweight chiffon that accented the curve of the hips. While the rest of the collection was off-kilter in form, these pieces were lightly sensual and very palatable.
written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRUNWAY
-October 2, 2012