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Paris Fashion Week Coverage: Celine Spring 2013

Perfection can be so maddening. That is why it’s practically a watershed moment for Phoebe Philo to show a Celine collection that’s a little bit less than perfect, a little slouchy, a little hip. Her signature minimalism is still present, but the cuts are looser, the drape is more languid. And the shoes? Well, they’re just downright silly. Philo took a risk in stepping outside of her prescribed aesthetic, but it works precisely because it’s unexpected.

Philo cuts a more generous-sized silhouette this time, which gives the clothes easier movement down the catwalk. A padded vest top was elongated to tunic proportions and worn over ankle-length trousers. The bottom half of this collection tended to be baggy, especially at the crotch, which was only enhanced by the use of shiny satin material. Models were swaddled with knotted fabric around the chest and abdomen, suggesting an element of metaphysical restraint to the languid looks. Drop-waist dresses with cutout necklines were met with mesh inserts for a more modest approach, and Philo’s outerwear was oversized and bulky with loose, dangling lapels. If you’re a Type-A woman who uses Celine’s clinical minimalism to restore balance to a disorganized wardrobe, you might be disappointed in Philo’s new, unkempt approach. However, if you’re at all obsessed with style and fit, this collection has plenty to offer.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRUNWAY

-October 1, 2012

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