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Paris Fashion Week Coverage: Giambattista Valli Spring 2012 Couture

If Giambattista Valli’s Couture Week collection had a familiar feel to it, there’s a good reason. This season, Valli recreates everything he has learned as a couturier in one blazing show. Valli produces a cacophony of looks that prove his prowess at design, and predictably keep his cadre of slavering fans reaching for their Platinum cards.

Virginal white launches the show in four easy looks that pull from retro attire and amalgamate the vintage inspiration into something wholly modern. From there, there is a tennis match of back and forth black and white pieces, each more ornate than the next. One dress featured a cascading tumble of black sequin stars against a white dress with a featherweight plissé skirt that the stars dripped down onto. A glossy black crocodile skin skirt looked positively sinful when paired with a snow-white top. Tulip peplum also evoked the retro feel, as did the cinched-in silhouettes of the hourglass shaped ensembles.

Valli is masterfully able to marry so many ideas in one outfit. For instance, this is a single dress: tight cap sleeves and a wrap-around neck bow in a muted striped silk is tailored to a black sequin bodice that falls into a sheer skirt scattered with shimmering black paillettes. Complicated, no?

At the end of the show, a burst of color can be seen in signature Valli fashion, along with his now-iconic aisle-wide skirts that billow and bluster in the wake of the models’ walk. The air of Victorian repression in this collection is tempered by shocking panels of sheer and purposeful flaws that take Valli’s perfectionism and add a little bit of mysterious imperfection to it.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

-January 24, 2012

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