The first looks conjure Hitchcock’s leading ladies, right down to the beehive chignons, organza headscarves, cat-eye glasses, petite mule pumps, and retro silhouettes. John Waters gets the second name check when coruscated dresses and skirts, shiny plaid, and teensy bathing suits come down the runway. It’s easy to tick the boxes: That’s so Divine, that’s definitely made for Cuddles, and that look is Lu-Lu through and through. While Waters may seem a strange influence, it makes perfect sense in a 50s-inspired collection – which is ultimately what the Rochas show is. The looks inspired by Tim Burton were in all black, but given the edge of couture refinement as Rochas designer Marco Zanini added dimensionality to his dresses with lots of layers. The film choices that influenced this show may make it seem like a young person’s collection, but the sophisticated pieces, rich fabrics and beautiful silhouettes make it one for the masses.
written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway